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Did I say she sang to me? Having held the cowrie shells to my ears so I could hear the sea, Xuba then broke into this low,sweet chant which , in spite of its low volume seemed lound and intense because of her proximity to my body splayed on the massage table. It was bweautiful and quite moving and infinitely more preferable to other spa sounds which I am fast becoming allergic to. I loathe most of spa music and always ask for it to be turned off, much preferring the hum of the air-conditioning to the sub-Enya offerings, not to mention the clang of Tibetan bells or the song of the hunchback whale. Although I am very happy at one particular Italian spa where you get Puccini along with your pedicure

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